adjuster « From the Workshop

December 4, 2018

Discussion

Filed under: Discussion,Window to my workshop — Tags: adjuster, handplanes, precision hand plane, snecked — admin @ 10:14 am

I am hoping to get some feedback here, so please register if you haven’t already and comments will be appreciated.

Snecked Blades

In the course of my research I have found that the only planes that were made with snecked irons were shoulder planes, and the occasional thumb and chariot planes – these were side snecked as in my 11-s smoothing plane here (double sided sneck).

Mitre planes usually have top snecked irons, as in my No 10 shown here.

I can’t understand why smoothers and panel planes etc did not have snecked irons. Of course top snecking would require a longer blade as lever cap or wedge would restrict their use. A side sneck should still work on these planes.

Is it possible that the use of chip breakers had something to do with this?

I am working on a development plane at the moment and planning to make it a non-adjuster plane. I feel that having a snecked iron will make a considerable difference in setting up the blade. I am also wondering if users choose to use a non-adjuster plane because it is better or is it an elitist thing?

Comments (1)

June 28, 2017

Photos of A31 Thumb plane

Filed under: A31 Thumb plane — Tags: adjuster, classic hand tools, precision hand plane — admin @ 4:17 pm

The A31 Thumb planes are now finished. The snakewood has come out really well

Comments (0)

June 19, 2017

Window to my workshop 114

Filed under: A31 Thumb plane,Window to my workshop — Tags: adjuster, tooling — admin @ 6:17 pm

I want to show off some of the finer detail in the making of my adjuster components and the tooling used to make them.

These are for my low angle planes:

This is a ball turner I made 30 years ago in the days when I was very enthusiastic for making miniature locos. Over time it has been used a lot in the making of my planes.

A fixture I made which is used for making my adjuster bases.

After the threaded stem and body has been ball turned a flat is needed so that it glides freely over the adjuster base and helps to orientate the blade driver. This is the flat after milling.

This is the blade drivers at different stages of their making. Two of which are still attached to their carriers, and one finished.

The last stage in the making of this blade driver is to turn the spigot on to its body. I had to make a special collet which was a little bit fussy because the spigot has to be formed 8 degrees from the perpendicular. Unlike the Norris counterpart it is all in one piece. Norris never went this far.

Comments (0)

May 19, 2017

Window to my workshop 112

Filed under: A31 Thumb plane,Window to my workshop — Tags: adjuster, precision hand plane — admin @ 12:22 pm

I have seen my work described in forums as analytical and lacking the warmth of a more rustic finish. However, my personal taste is perfection.

To achieve this perfection on the adjusters for my planes, work is intensive and the inletting for them is also time consuming. The system I use is on the CNC milling machine as the quality of work is essential. It is important to have an uninterrupted feed rate using state of the art tungsten carbide tools. This I think is more desirable than a hole that looks like it has been gnawed by a rodent

Comments (0)

July 13, 2015

Window to my Workshop no 92

Filed under: No 984,Window to my workshop — Tags: adjuster, classic hand tools, stainless steel — admin @ 5:00 pm

One of the boring sides of this detail. It is no simple polishing job as the valleys formed by the mill are very hard to smooth out.

It is a case of starting with a coarse abrasive and working down to 1200 grade and then I wrap a piece of denim cloth infused with metal polish for the final polish.

That is a reflection of my magnetic tool rack which looks like a row of vertical scratches.

It seems odd doing polishing at this stage but it is the sequence which I choose to do the work in which gives me the finish. When all the riveting and adjuster recessing are complete I can surface grind the inner parts so everything is sharp and pristine.

Somebody on a forum described my work as being clinical and having no soul, maybe he is right and it is dammed hard work to keep it up

Comments (0)

October 25, 2013

Window to my workshop 73

Filed under: No 983 block plane,Window to my workshop — Tags: adjuster, knurling, stainless steel — admin @ 3:02 pm

After several weeks of design, trial and tribulations, the thumb wheel in stainless steel is finally complete. New designs and ideas are always time consuming.

This picture shows the thumb wheel inverted and assembled with the floating spherical washer (the washer does not appear to be central on the photo as it is floating). This works with the matching spherical depression in the underside of the thumb wheel like a ball and socket; evenly spreading the load over its area, helping to eliminate any lateral movement on the blade as you tighten down on it. It also helps to evenly distribute the pressure throughout the blade bed reducing body distortion.

These are the three components making up the thumb wheel. I have changed the grip arrangement on the thumb wheel and screws. I dislike the fact that a lot of knurls fill up with dirt. Aesthetically I find this method, though labour intensive, is more pleasing and feels comfortable on the thumb/fingers.

I would like to emphasise that, as always, all my components are hand made, in house.

Comments (0)

September 5, 2012

New Project – A31 Thumb plane

Filed under: New Projects,Window to my workshop — Tags: adjuster, dovetailed, Holtey, planes — admin @ 4:01 pm

Selected wood for my next project – A31 thumb plane (probably the last batch)

Best part of the metal work well on the way

Comments (3)

May 11, 2012

Window to my Workshop 64

Filed under: No 982 Smoothing plane,Window to my workshop — Tags: adjuster, handplanes, precision — admin @ 5:44 pm

Continuation of the last batch of No 982 planes

There are two reasons that I use the surface grinder a lot; the main one is for the precision and also for the nice textured finish. This usually means that I visit the surface grinder several times during the working of the plane as no matter how careful I handle the work pieces they seem to break out in a ‘workshop’ rash very quickly.

This picture here is the sides being ground true after the drilling and tapping. This also leaves the bottoms a true uniformed width and square.

Of course the time comes when the toe of the plane needs to be separated from the rear end. I can lose a lot of sleep here as mistakes are so easy. Any mistakes here will cost me dearly.

With the front and back ends of the bottom now separated each part is then milled to size and angle.

All my marks are stamped with my fly press which I couldn’t exist without. The No 982 plane is stamped with an edition and its number, the plane type is stamped on the front end of the bottom (just behind the bun). The HOLTEY logo is stamped on the inside of the right hand side of the plane.

The 55 deg milled bed is surface ground maintaining the angle to precision. This picture may be a little blurred but I wanted to catch the sparks.

Now the front end. I use two angles here. The one being ground here is the critical one because this is going to be the mouth of the plane. This is in a similar tradition to some of the wooden planes and is much easier to regulate a small aperture as desired by some.

This angle here helps to provide a better means of escape for the shavings and access for cleaning. The grinding here is mainly cosmetic.

Comments (0)

April 26, 2012

Window to my Workshop 63

Filed under: No 982 Smoothing plane,Window to my workshop — Tags: adjuster, Classic, Hand tools, Holtey, No 982 — admin @ 12:16 pm

These are the front bun chairs and once the blanks have been cut and trimmed up true to uniformed size the central fixing hole is drilled whilst still in the lathe. They are then tapped with an 8 x 1.25mm thread; this is for the bun screw.

The 3 x 6mm fixings are drilled on a manual milling machine using an indexing head as shown.

With the three index holes now drilled I only need a tool change to tap these three holes whilst still in the chuck.

Now that all my fixing holes are complete it is back to the lathe to form a small spigot where the bun in engaged.

The last job on the chairs now is to finish the bottoms to the 15 deg offset to the front buns. A small fixture has been made for this purpose. The chairs are mounted with the three bolts.

The chair is held in its fixture and secured on the saw for cutting