Window to my workshop 57 « From the Workshop…

Window to my workshop 57 « From the Workshop…

There is a short reply and a long reply but I am having a day off today so it is the short one!

Certainly not practical and you are thinking like a woodworker! In my workshop I have a very good bow saw and to make this kind of cut I would require a purpose made fixture and then the cut itself would take an extremely long time. I would only be saving a few extra ounces of steel.

It would be nice to make it out of a solid bar but there would still be a large amount of milling and I would have to make it a cross grind on top. I might come back to this idea at a later date.

Don’t write the riveting off because as you can see they are integral with the sneck. The fact that they are riveted over on the underside of the blade whilst the sneck block is still square enables me to use the fly press which does a lot more than just peining the end of the rivet. It swells the whole of the rivet making it extremely tight in its bore. This is about as good as it gets. It allows me to concentrate on the finish and texture of the blade.

k

The cutter, for those that are interested, is a Dormer C700 R=12.5 HSCo corner radiusing cutter. It is an off the shelf component but not widely available and cost about £200. I know because I have just had to order one!

It is the only cutter of this of any quality with 20 mm shank (this is partly why it is so expensive, a 25mm shank would be less than half this price. Anyone contemplating purchasing a milling machine I would strongly recommend it has nothing smaller than a 40 international spindle).

k

The real issue here is that the rivet is integral to the sneck, whereas a loose rivet would be weak and will allow movement then look unsightly. A loose rivet would be more effective in a larger sneck.

k