Don’t we all

k

Thank you very much for the nice comments.

I have only seen a few of the Norris adjuster’s with the thread clamping screw you describe. On my adjuster both the threads on the male part are cut with a 1/2″ coventry die, using ordinary taps for the female part. All in high spec high speed steel. I feel that it is very difficult to get a perfect thread fit with just cutting and where two similar metals are involved there is a tendency to pick up. There will always be a problem with back lash especially as there are two threads to deal with. With the screw you may reduce the backlash but not eliminate it. I make my adjusters with a better tolerance all round to elimate as much backlash as possible. If you do try to get them too tight they will lock.

k

Absolutely stunning work! Thanks for sharing these photos and descriptions–wonderful to see!

I do have a question about the adjuster: I have only seen a few original Norris adjusters but I thought that they had a screw across a slot to adjust the fit of the threaded stem through the round pivot block. You do not seem to need such adjustment, I assume due to a better fit of the threads.

Is there a standard that you cut the threads to here? What class of fit are you trying to achieve?

By the way, making the banjos out of solid stock make sense to me since attaching the ring to the threaded rod would be challenging any other way!

Thanks again!

Brian

I am afraid that is all there is to it

Thanks
k

Kidding.

Thanks for the journey into your plane-making life, Karl – it has been an amazing trip thus far. The amount of time and level of precision that goes into each plane is almost unfathomable by me…