Yes, on occasions I do use glue. In the case of gluing rosewoods I usually use a cyanoacrylate as it is the only adhesive that works on this oily wood. It seems to etch the wood a little bit. I would recommend using a slow acting one so if you are quick enough you can reduce the size of the glue line. The sequence of gluing is obviously important and in your case the gluing of the side cheeks to the handle is best left until the very end. This means that all the polishing is done and ready for assembly. Good luck.

k

Do you glue the infill pieces together? If so, at what point do you glue them? Before the final assembly, or at the same time you peen the rivets. Your blog has inspired me to build my own A13 dovetail plane.

Thanks, Chad.

Good question. The material I use for these spacers is a thick walled brass tube. There is too much material to remove for reaming straight off so drilling is necessary. Even after drilling with a 7/32nd drill and using a slightly undersized rivet it still wont go through so the reaming is necessary. I believe that brasses and bronzes repel away from most cutting tools so there may be some stretching and deflection when passing a drill through. Even if I make a second pass with a reamer I can still produce more swarf. The reamer does not flex as much as the drill.

k

I would like to put all this documentation in a book sometime. I have been taking photos for some years now and have plenty of material. I am hoping to interest a publisher.

k

Mike

Making planes is an opportunity to work in metal and woods, combining machine and hand work, to very fine tolerances. It is a pity that it has taken me so long to document my work (and if I had known how long it would take I might not have started ). There are many other projects awaiting words. It is also an opportunity to illustrate the skill involved in machining.

Thank you for your interest.